Replace/Repair Headliner

On my 86 Turbo, which already had a pretty nice interior, one typical
problem existed. I didn't even notice or check the headliner while
purchasing (not that it would've made a difference). I noticed it first
when I was going around with protectant wipes getting all the plastic
cleaned up. Well - typical sagging had occurred somewhere in it's life.
Someone tried once or twice to get it stuck back up there, but when the
foam backing is basically powder, it doesn't stick well.
I read the Z31
article about removing the headliner, and AZ-ZBum's
writeup about replacement and I went to town. Removal of the
headliner is a cinch and takes maybe 10 minutes tops. The most difficult
part was removing the rear trim piece, which isn't saying much because
that wasn't too tough, either.
Cost of Repair: $15 for Headliner Fabric and $15 for 3M
Spray Adhesive (I've seen it cheaper online)
The surface of the original headliner was still in pretty good shape.
However, certain sections had warped and the foam backing was pretty
much destroyed around the back edge because of heat, age, and multiple
applications of glue. Some glues will dissolve foam and most glues will
not adhere an old Z headliner to the hardboard backing. The original
headliner has a velvet-like surface which is bonded to what appears to
be a plastic liner, all with a foam backing. Once the foam is gone, the
plastic is all the glue has to stick to, and the padding is obviously
gone, which would case a gap between the trim and headliner surface. So,
basically, the best thing you can do it replace the headliner instead of
trying to get it to stick back on...even if you did a good job, you'll
likely have some warped sections and end up with a sagging headliner
again in the near future.
I removed the metal clips from the holes --- this was a bit of a pain.
Obviously be careful not to bend the hard board because it will crack or
break off. You want these metal clips put back on after you adhere the
new fabric. One of them accepts the clips from the map-lights so you
won't wear into the hardboard by clipping the metal clips into the
hardboard opening.
Worse than anything was the ATTEMPTS previous owners took on rehanging
the original liner. They got glue everywhere. I had to refinish the
hatch trim piece because the glue would not come off without stripping
paint. I stripped it clean and repainted it with black trim paint from
Checker. Looks great : ) Back to the main subject, however --- many
small sections of headliner did not rip off with the rest of the
headliner. It was glued on tight. There were several sections on the
board that had thick, heavy glue. I had to take a razor blade scraper
and carefully get the bulk of it off. Be careful if you have to do this
because the blade will easily start to cut into the hardboard. It took
me about 90 minutes to clean off the bulk of the glue. Then I used an
orbital sander to even things out as good as I could without ruining the
shape or thinning out the board too much. I used some citrus cleaner on
some of the sticky glue residue that was left over. There as both
sticky, wet glue residue and hard stuck on glue.
As described in the write-ups, any normal sections with stuck on old
foam were easy to work with. Just rub it off with a medium coarse
scotch-pad. I tried to remove any "high" areas where glue was a bit
thicker. When done, the majority of the surface had a uniform rough look
(except for the part I had to sand). I took 200 grit wet sand paper
(used it dry) and just went over the entire surface lightly to clean it
off and get a good bonding pattern for the new glue.
I went to Jo-Anns Fabric and bought the black, foam-backed headliner.
Hopefully the foam used now is a bit more resilient that the foam
backing used on the original headliner. There is not a plastic liner, at
least, so if it ever sags again, reparation might be possible (thought
the gap would still be an issue with repair). Cloth may also shrink over
time (maybe not warp, but shrink).
Although both the write-ups above are great, I followed this one a bit
more closely:
HEAD LINER
REPAIR
I did not want to use staples, and I figured a well-adhered headliner
is not going to need staples to keep it up. I found several spray
adhesives at Checker, AutoZone, and HomeDepot. However, none of them
were high-heat resistant. Basically all of them said they were for
automotive fabric and carpet, but not to be used for headliner. Even
some that said they were specifically for headliner basically said not
to use them for headliner : ) One 3M can was labeled as General Purpose
Spray Adhesive. It said not to use it for headliner, but rather to use
3M™ Super Trim Adhesive. I found this stuff at NAPA, along with several
other suitable spray adhesive products (all high heat resistant). The
can said 3M Super Trim Adhesive - 08090 Yellow. Specific directions are
included. I imagine this stuff is really good. However, it was kind of
funny that this can said not to use it on lightweight foam/fabric...I
basically ignored this recommendation because at this point, it appeared
NOTHING was recommended for foam-backed headliner....one can tells you
to use high heat resistant, and the high heat resistant glue tells you
to use general purpose. HA! I tested the glue on a small section of
headliner fabric and it appeared to hold up just fine to a light coat.
3M™ Super Trim
Adhesive, 08090, Yellow, Net Wt 19 oz/539 g, 6 per case

|
Aerosol contact adhesive
designed for bonding vinyl tops, heavyweight liners and hood
silencer pads where high strength and heat resistance are
needed. |
Outstanding features:1.) High immediate bond strength2.)
Re-positionable during assembly3.) Excellent heat and water
resistance4.) Plasticizer resistant5.) Long-bonding range (5 minute to 1
hour)6.) Lace-like, non-misting spray7.) No need to purge after use.
Note: Not recommended for polyethylene, polypropylene or foamed
polystyrene.
I laid the hardboard across the fabric and cut the fabric about 1 1/2"
wider on each edge. The reason I cut out the fabric before hand was
because I wanted to save the large sections that would be left over
without getting glue on it and because I thought it would make it easier
to line up, glue, handle, and pull apart from the cardboard --- I think
all of these turned out to be right. Then I layed a large flat section
of cardboard on the ground (outside, warm day), laid down the hard
board, and then the cut fabric. I folded over half of the fabric, laid
cardboard between it and the other half of fabric (to avoid getting glue
sprayed on the surface of the other side). I put down a light, even coat
of glue on the foam side. Then I sprayed a heavier coat on the hard
board.
The glue sprays out in a criss-cross pattern and gets a bit stringy,
so be careful to do this when there is no wind, and make sure you don't
get any glue on the your nice new fabric surface (either from your hands
or accidentally from overspray).
I let the wet glue sit for just a bit, until it got a bit tacky (only
a few minutes). Then, with a helper, I pulled the fabric down slowly and
put light, even pressure from the center outward, slowly laying down
more until I reached the cross section of the hard board panel, and then
likewise with the close from the center to each end. DO NOT PULL THE
FABRIC so as to stretch it out --- just lay it lightly and evenly. The
stuff is VERY forgiving -- you aren't likely to crease this stuff -- it
was a piece of cake to get it to set down well. Make sure you apply
enough pressure to get it well adhered, but NOT SO MUCH that you soak up
glue into the foam. This can cause several problems --- hard spots,
permanent compression (if the glue dries when the foam is compressed),
and staining of the fabric. The glue WILL BLEED through if you are not
careful. This is why some prefer to use a velvet upholstery (as well as
to get the factory, fuzzy look).
Now that half was done, I let it sit for 30 minutes and waited to do
the next side. Copy the same procedure for the next side. Let it dry for
several hours, if not a day, in 75 degree heat (inside or warm day).
As I mentioned before, I left generous excess around the edges. Part
of the reason I left excess was so I could decide whether to fold it
back over the board and glue the edges down. I decided to just cut the
edges off because I remember that having it folded over on my '84
headliner (was redone "professionally") cause a bit of a problem with
setting it back into the front/windshield trim. It becomes thick and a
bit tough to deal with. If you staple it down, that would probably help
since it would be compressed, but still, it's going to be thicker. Also,
the writeup I followed mentioned that if there is trim used around the
edges, you don't need to fold it over (sounds like folding it over is
for aesthetics). I really think the 3M heat resistant glue is strong
enough to hold up this rather light material and I don't think it will
be a problem for a VERY, VERY long time.
So, I gave the edge about 1/4" just for possible
shrinking/pulling/tugging. Then I re-installed the metal clips (big pain
in the butt, again, be careful not to use too much force). The I stuck
the headliner back in the car. I had a bit of trouble lining it all up.
Set it back into the rear, side trim pieces. Then carefully work the
front end into the windshield trim. Then focus on getting the dome light
screw back in it's place. If you can get this screw in, the whole
headliner will be set up nicely for the other screws.
Once I had the four other headliner screws in place, I worked on some
of the accessory items (rear-view, dome light, map lights, and rear
trim. I used a small screwdriver to find where the screw holes were for
things. I waited to attach the visors themselves until I had the T-Top
trim back in place with the front screws set into the A-Pillars. Then I
snapped on the A-Pillar trim and did the visors. Then I attached the
hooks.
It felt good to get this done. It looks very nice, and total cost
(minus opp. cost of my time : ) was $15 for the fabric and $15 for the
glue can. Yep, the glue is a bit pricey.
CLICK ON IMAGES BELOW FOR LARGER FORMAT

